Monday, November 21, 2011
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Rome Sucks
AOG, Sitges
Why? well, it could be that the airline looses your luggage and you are doomed to wear the same pair of new shoes for days on end.
I agreed. My partner was right. We always say we'll go some time, but then we never do.
The problem was not typical Italian efficiency, it was typical Spanish negligence. As we would find out the next day, the bags had never left Barcelona.
I have to say that the drive went pretty well, and that it is not exactly very pretty. It was, all in all, a bit odd. First we were on a highway, then, after a while, we were in what can only be describe as 'leafy suburbs'.
Then, suddenly, something which would happen again and again, though we didn't know it at the time, occurred: when we least expected it, and just before we entered a tunnel, out of the corner of our left eyes, we caught a glimpse of St. Peter's, in The Vatican.
We quickly crossed the Tiber and drove down the Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II and into our hotel near the Campo de Fiori.
We were starving by now and wanted to a) see Rome and b) get some clothes. We had nothing to wear.
We found a small restaurant about 3 minutes away and sat down. We ordered one pizza for both of us and something to drink. It was the best pizza we would have during the whole trip. It was that good.
We really only had the clothes on our backs to wear and, as the lunch experience had proven, Rome was baking under the sun, and us with it.
We were really torn between wanting to see the sights, and our clothing needs, so we tried to concentrate very little on what we saw, hard to do since, if you've never been to Rome, everything is new to you, even when nine or ten centuries old. Or more.
When I say we stumbled, I mean it. It is gigantic, but it is not exactly by a major road, it is on a major square, but off to the right, so if you happen to be on the street and not turn right, you might not exactly see it. But then, once you do, you can't see anything else.
So back to the Via del Corso, and our shopping. We had nothing to wear the next day, and clothes were urgently needed. So we spent the best part of the afternoon traipsing from store to store, looking for garments, and missing out on Rome altogether. I must point out that by now, my partner and I were wondering how the people of Italy reproduced since, it was very obvious, all men in that country were gay.
Our main hope turned out to be H&M, but, once we got there, almost at the end of the Corso, we discovered, much to our dismay, that there was no Men's section there. Can you believe it? We had walked the entire length of the Corso in the hope of finding a place which might have something overpriced. Fat chance.
Since at that point we were only about two blocks from the Piazza del Popolo, we decided to go there. I have to say, at this point in the day, I was ready to be impressed, or something, and impressed I was.
I had long wanted to see the twin churches of Santa Maria in Montesanto (1662-75) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (built 1675-79).
And there they were, in all their Baroque beauty. I think this is the one time Rome got interesting that day. I would say it made the whole thing worthwhile, but it isn't true.
The day had sucked all day long from the minute our luggage went missing. But that minute, when we walked into that space, covered in fatigue and sweat, the city seemed beautiful, the tourists a mere nuisance, the heat (and it was around 8:30 PM) almost tolerable.
We stopped at the obelisk in the middle of the Piazza, an original comission of of Sety I (later erected by Rameses II) from Heliopolis which stands in the centre of the Piazza, inside a fountain, and is the second oldest and one of the tallest obelisks in Rome (some 24 m high, or 36 m including its plinth).
It was brought to Rome in 10 BC by order of Augustus and originally set up in the Circus Maximus.
Once there, a tourist girl asked her friend if she could drink from the fountain. My partner overheard her and told her that he'd read that you could drink from any fountain in Rome, unless it specifically said not to. She was happy about this, and we spoke with her for a couple more minutes. She was from Spain, and was there on holiday with a couple more friends from school. She must have been in her very early 20s. And she was lovely.
It was starting to get dark, and we decided to get back to the hotel. We couldn't decide between a bus, the subway, or walking. So we walked back along the dark and not too busy streets of, as it turns out, downtown Rome.
Soon we were back at the hotel, where there was no news about our luggage. The hotel's concierge really couldn't care less, so we went to our room, had a shower and went out to have dinner, not too sure about where to do this.
We decided to follow the incoming crowd down one of the streets, and ended up at the Campo dei Fiori. It was teeming with life: children playing, musicians, flower vendors, Indian or Pakistani trinket salesmen. In short, Touristland right there in front of us. The only Italians being the waiters at the Campo's many restaurants.
So in we walked, and decided that the one on the right, on the other side of La Carbonara Restaurant, where we should have dined, just as you walked in, would do. Mistake.
The food, although ok once we got it, did not surpass the bad service of a place which doubled as a drinks bar and dance club after 11PM. We kept getting food meant for other tables, everything arrived at odd intervals, drinks had to be ordered more than twice. In short, a mess. But given the day's big story, it really paled in comparison. We didn't mind much that the service was so bad. I think we were relieved it was over more than anything else!
Afterwards, we went for a walk on the Tiber, and saw that, at night, it really came alive. It seems like the good citizens of Rome have allowed for bars and stands to be set up alongside the banks of the river. I was immediately drawn by the music and the bright, intermitent, lights of the marquees.
We crossed the bridge, and went down to the bank. We saw a couple of small stands which were a sort of Godsend since they had one of the items we needed most: a phone charger! Yes, ours were safely (we hoped) stored inside our suitcases.
We then decided to go to one of the "bars". A rugby-themed bar by the side of the Tiber showing New Zealand's Rugby matches. Yes, slightly surreal, but then Rome is slightly surreal.
We would have stayed longer, but we were beat. We had had a long day and were yearning for sleep.
So after a couple of drinks, we headed back to the hotel. The room was not exactly cool, although the imitation a/c had been on all afternoon, so we agreed to sleep with the balcony window open.
So our first day in Rome ended.
Publicado por
AOG
en
16:22
1 comentarios
Etiquetas: Campo dei Fiori, Flying, gay, Italy, Luggage, Rome, travel, vacation, Vacations, Via Condotti
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Summer reading
I wish this weren't the way things happen, but it is.
This is a place, behind the beautiful Ministry of Agriculture and next to the Botanical gardens which goes from the Prado Boulevard upwards (it is on a slope) towards Retiro Park.
There are, of course, books from the XIX century and before, but those are slightly out of my price range at present.
Publicado por
AOG
en
23:27
0
comentarios
Etiquetas: Alexander Solzhenitsyn, Irina Grekova, Literature, Soviet Literature, Summer Reading List, vacation
Friday, July 01, 2011
The moment I felt most American
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| View of the city of Caceres |
Modern Neighbors
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| My studio flat is very similar to this image, though smaller. |
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| Evil, but ... |
Publicado por
AOG
en
14:07
1 comentarios
Etiquetas: childhood, Modern Life, Modern World, modernity, Neighbors, Studio Flat, texas
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
What's the deal with Weiner?
Publicado por
AOG
en
22:24
0
comentarios
Etiquetas: Anthony Weiner, Apology, Capitol Hill, democrats, Lewd, Politicians, politics, US Politics, usa, Washington D.C., Weiner
Monday, April 25, 2011
Royal Wedding 2011
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| Regent Street |
Publicado por
AOG
en
14:10
1 comentarios
Etiquetas: London, Royal Wedding, Royalty, uk
Monday, April 18, 2011
Lay Spain 2011
And that is probably the best example of how this country tries to do away with religion in its institutions, while kow-towing to religion time and time again. Something which many people in Spain wish did not happen.
Madrid’s Easter processions are relatively low key compared to the religious pomp and circumstance of cities like Valladolid and the über Catholic processions of Seville, in the South of the country but nevertheless as a popular religious expression.
In fact, it would be fair to say that about half the population of Lavapies is not of Christian origin, coming as many of them do from places like North Africa or the Indian subcontinent, although no religious group asked for this demonstration, quite the opposite.
Many other atheist groups in Madrid and in Spain have joined AMAL and it has the right of appeal before Madrid’s Superior Justice Tribunal since the demonstration’s denial is seen as a violation of the fundamental right of public demonstration and assembly, enshrined in Spain’s legal system.
The fact that "religious derision" can be counted as a punishable crime in Spain has many people in the country up in arms.
This is one of the few public declarations they have made since they went public with their request given the fact that they have, allegedly, been “threatened” ever since. “We were trying to criticise the Church as an institution, not any religious belief. We meant it to be like a neighborhood band type of thing”.
The Government is ruled at present by the Socialist Party, a political organisation which continuously tries to present its lay credentials but which often falls short in the eyes of many.
However, it remains to be seen if nothing beyond the religious processions will take place.
Many in Spain see this as another example of their non-denominational Government bowing to religious pressure and as a victory for the Catholic Church, an institution which in Spain, surprisingly, has of late been playing the victim continuously, especially since the Socialists came into power in 2004.
Publicado por
AOG
en
13:17
0
comentarios
Etiquetas: Demonstration, Laicity, Lay, madrid, Procession, religion, Religious Intolerance, spain
























